Help! My Papillons
are fighting!
Dear
Suzydog,
I have
2 male Papillons, age 1 year and 10 months, both intact. Both
went through obedience class. They are
half brothers (same daddy) bred by different breeders. They fight each other for toys and
treats. I buy two of everything but each
wants the other's toy or treat. If one
is chewing/playing with a toy the other one will stand in front of the other
and bark his head off or steal it. Or
they will actually fight. I pull them apart, take the toy away and
put them in their carriers for several minutes.
I also tell them NO fighting. I
have tried distracting the dog that is barking with another toy. That usually doesn't work. They just go back at it. How do I get them to play nicely with each
other?
Oh, why can't we all just get
along?
I hate to tell you this, but
sometimes dogs share toys and treats, and sometimes they don't. We humans generally are most useful when we
stay out of these situations, let the dogs determine their own
relationship/hierarchy, and allow them to communicate in their own way. We often try to somehow equalize our
cohabitating dogs because we feel that it's "fair", but that's not the way of
the canine world, which actually thrives on inequality.
In a 2-dog household, one dog is
usually dominant over the other. Trying
to fix that usually creates more of a problem than there already is. Giving equal toys or treats to both dogs at
the same time simply gives your dogs something to argue about. We humans think: "It's only fair that they each get one
toy. Now they should each be happy and
understand that the other dog has no more or less than the other."
But the dogs don't seem to get it,
do they?. One always wants what the
other has, even when he already has one!
Does one of your dogs usually end
up with both toys or treats? If so, he
is probably the "dominant" one in this twosome.
Don't confuse this kind of
dominance with dominance over other dogs.
The dominant dog in your household is not necessarily a "dominant dog",
if that makes any sense. Dog dynamics
change with each new dog and sometimes they even change between dogs. I suspect that neither of your dogs is
particularly dominant and they can't come to an agreement over who's higher on
the totem pole. The dogs who continually
argue and snipe are the ones who aren't
happy with their middle position. Truly
dominant dogs are very cool customers. No
one ever challenges them, so they are very rarely in fights.
Evaluate the
severity of each interaction.
Evaluate your dogs' interactions. Remember, dogs like to talk and wrestle;
that's what they do. I ran a cage-free dog daycare where 40+ dogs "talked"
and wrestled all day. There
is a distinct difference between the sound of dog "talk" and dog "fight". You
probably already know what their regular "conversations" sound like and how
their voices change when they are truly angry.
We humans often mistake canine conversation for fighting, just because
most of the sounds that dogs make is some form of growling or barking. Listen.
Is it talk, or is it truly menacing?
Look at their faces. Are they
having tough dog fun or are they really about to put holes into each other?
The fact that you have two
adolescent unneutered males is not making things easier here. They are both in the midst of the most macho,
hormonally charged time in their lives and will continue to be like this for
another six months or so. By the time
they're 2 years old the hormones will start to calm down a bit and so will
they. Right now, think of them as two 15
year old boys with guns, fighting over whatever 15-year old boys like…
sneakers, cheerleaders, pizza? Are these
boys going to load their guns? Are they
going to actually pull the trigger? My
point is this: Your boys are hormonal
and not very wise, but they're not
completely clueless either.
There is some potential for an
all-out fight during which the dominant one is determined. During this fight someone might be hurt and
have to see a veterinarian. This does
not necessarily mean they will have to be separated afterwards. As a matter of fact, it will probably be the
first moment they will be able to live together harmoniously because they'll
finally both know where they stand in your household hierarchy.
But it sounds like you won't have
as serious a problem as all that. If
they're barking at each other, and stealing, they're actually being pretty
respectful of each other. This kind of
vocalizing usually means "Hey! Give it
to me! I want it! " or "Hey! Pick that up and let me chase you! Come on! "
The fact that they've already
nipped at each other actually bodes well because it means
1) they're biting without
injuring,
2) they know that it hurts, and
3) they know and that the other
one won't want to play much after a nip.
Puppies learn bite inhibition with
other puppies this way and that's a major lesson in any dog's life.
Remove the
cheerleaders.
It's wise to remove the most
highly charged items—the food and animal-based ones. That means biscuits, cookies, jerkies,
rawhides, pig's ears, hooves. What's
usually OK: Gumabones, Kongs, ropes,
stuffed animals, rubber squeakies, etc.
They may still argue over these items but they're more on the level of "Air
Jordans" than "cheerleader" in our 15-year old boy analogy.
Separate them at mealtimes too, on
a permanent basis. If they free-feed all day long, switch to
meals by picking up the food after 5 minutes, whether the dog has eaten any or
not. Put the food bowl back down 4-6
hours later. Pick up the bowl after 5
minutes and repeat until your dogs eat their meal in under 5 minutes. This process may take several days.
Punishment for
behavior modification
Consider getting several water
bottles or squirt guns for quick corrections when they start up. Plant them around the house so you're not
running around looking for one whenever you need it. Water guns are nice for loving dog owners
because they're a harmless but effective (unless, of course, you own a Lab, who
loves water).
Three important notes on
punishment:
- Punishment is useless and harmful if your timing
is bad.
- Punishment is only helpful in the long run if you
associate it with a verbal command.
- Punishment is most effective and easiest to
administer if you can counter it with an equal or larger amount of verbal
praise for adjacent non-bad behavior.
Punishment is only effective when
it is delivered at the instant of the infraction—not before, and not
after. Wait until the instant your dogs
actually start to nip or scuffle, and then squirt them while saying a word like
"NO" or "STOP"- - whatever word you and your husband can choose and use
consistently. Stop squirting the
instant they stop fighting , and immediately praise them for not fighting until
they start up again. If they're neither fighting
nor getting along, it's best to just watch silently and wait for something you
can convincingly praise or punish.
What will happen is that after a
few weeks (depending on the incidence frequency) your dogs will have such a
strong association with the squirt and your command word that your verbal
command alone will stop the behavior, without the squirt.
Be stingy with punishment. Save it for the true infraction; the true
scuffle and nip. Why?
§ Because
over-frequent punishment will cause them to believe that they are not allowed
to vocalize at all while interacting. Growling is the only way a dog can tell you
how he feels. A dog who's been punished
for all growling moves directly to a bite "without any warning".
§ Because
if one gets a squirt every time he interacts he'll start to associate the
punishment with the other dog and may
start to truly dislike him!
If your timing's good and you're
consistent, over time they will start to play nicer.
Actual Punctures
If they are really putting holes
into each other you'll have to forego all toys when they're in the same room
together. If they continue to find
things to fight over, you might have to muzzle them both when they're together,
or keep them permanently separated. But
I don't think you're at this point with these two. Adolescent boys can be jerks, and they can
hurt each other… but it's not the norm.
All in all, I'd predict you'll be
enduring mostly harmless barking, stealing/playing, possible nips and
"conversing" for some time and then in a year or so you'll find it has
decreased in frequency, particularly if you use your squirt guns at the rare
but opportune moments that you'd like to eliminate in the future. |